Berliner Tageblatt - Demna to bow out at Balenciaga with farewell Paris fashion show

Demna, known for his daring work as well as controversies during his stint at Kering-owned Balenciaga, will unveil his final collection on Wednesday at what is likely to be a star-studded show.

The 44-year-old, acclaimed by millennials and Gen-Z stars from Kim Kardashian to British pop sensation Charli XCX, will begin his new task of reviving the flagging fortunes of Gucci from Thursday.

The man behind a $2,000 "Ikea" bag and a $1,800 so-called "trash pouch", as well as a much-criticised advertising campaign that appeared to reference child abuse, is not seen as a natural fit for the more classical Gucci label by some analysts.

Shares in luxury conglomerate Kering, which owns Balenciaga and Gucci, fell around 12 percent on the day of the announcement of his promotion in March and have sunk further since.

"His creative power is exactly what Gucci needs," Kering CEO Francois-Henri Pinault said at the time.

Other more established and mainstream designers from Hedi Slimane, Maria Grazia Chiuri or Pierpaolo Piccioli had been linked to the vacancy.

After Demna's farewell at midday in Paris (1000 GMT), Belgian designer Glenn Martens will find himself in the spotlight when he unveils a first collection for Maison Margiela, following his appointment in January to succeed British designer John Galliano.

Martens has big shoes to fill, with the house's last couture show under eccentric showman Galliano in January 2024 considered a huge success by critics.

The day will also see new collections unveiled by the Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf, Hong Kong’s Robert Wun, French designer Franck Sorbier, Japan’s Yuima Nakazato and the Lebanese designers Zuhair Murad and Elie Saab.

Tuesday saw a final show by Chanel under its in-house design studio, the fifth since former chief creative Virginie Viard's sudden departure in June 2024.

The collection featured a play-it-safe reinterpretation of its classic tweed looks in front of A-listers from Marion Cotillard, Penelope Cruz and Kirsten Dunst to singers Lorde and Gracie Abrams.

Newly installed chief creative Matthieu Blazy, a discreet and highly respected Franco-Belgian designer, will showcase his first ready-to-wear collection for Chanel in October in what will be one of the biggest events of the fashion calendar this year.

Haute Couture Week is dedicated to handcrafted, one-of-a-kind creations bought by celebrities and VIPs for red carpets, galas and other high-profile events.

N.Fournier--BTB