Berliner Tageblatt - Milan Fashion Week showcases precision in uncertain times

At Prada, Armani or Ralph Lauren, the US stalwart brand that returned to Milan Fashion Week, classic pieces underwent just slight variations without losing their comforting aspect.

"We are in a moment where the world we know is changing. It is a period of transformation and anticipation, of excitement, but it is a time that may be uncomfortable," said Miuccia Prada on Sunday following the presentation of her collection co-designed with Raf Simons.

Long coats hanging over the models' slender frames were paired with round cotton caps draped jauntily over their shoulders, while short and colourful waterproof capes decorated other coats, as if for young, fashionable cardinals protecting themselves from the outside world.

"How can we imagine the future, in this moment of extreme change? This collection is a search for beauty, for elegance and meaning," Prada added.

Simons, who has been designing at Prada's side since February 2020, said the challenge was creating "something new with what you already know -- that you already learned, loved and respected".

"In an uncertain moment, I like when someone can make ideas very precise and clear -- this is an idea I find reassuring, comforting," he said.

"We reversed the form language of certain things that we know so well," he added, turning familiar pieces into unexpected looks.

Ralph Lauren has meanwhile returned to Milan after a 24-year absence -- although the man himself stayed back in New York -- not leaving behind the brand's beloved symbols of easy American elegance.

From tweeds, plaids and corduroy to sweaters knit with alpine patterns, varsity jackets and cowboy hats, the US brand revisited dozens of its classic wardrobe of comfortable, easy-to-mix pieces from the Polo and Purple Label lines under senior brand creative director John Wrazej.

Italian brand Zegna paired structured jackets with loose-fitting trousers in natural tones of green and terracotta, while Tod's showcased leather jackets lined with cashmere.

- 'Less noise' -

This fashion season in Milan was "defined by quality, cut, cloth and craft", said Simon Longland, purchasing director for Harrods.

"There was a palpable sense that product integrity and the final customer were front and centre. Less noise, fewer theatrics -- but a stronger, more coherent message around what modern luxury menswear looks like today: thoughtful, considered, and built to last," he said.

On Monday, Giorgio Armani also presented velvets and cashmere of green, blue and amethyst shades, four months after the death of the legendary designer aged 91.

The collection's theme was "cangiante", an Italian word synonymous with iridescent and describing "something that remains entirely itself, yet changes depending on your perspective", the brand said in a statement.

It said Leo Dell'Orco, the late Armani's long-time companion, wanted to "put a personal imprint on what represents his beginnings", his first collection since the designer's death in September 2025.

Dell'Orco received a standing ovation at the end of the show in the intimate setting of Armani's historic headquarters.

R.Adler--BTB